A Tourist in Rome - Porta San Giovanni (and Porta Asinaria)

Location:Steps away from the metro station San Giovanni, to the east-southeast from the church of San Giovanni in Larerano, and along the route of my Southeastern Sights Walking Tour
Metro:San Giovanni
Time:about 20 minutes
Cost:Free
Hours:Viewable at any time

The Aurelian Wall (red wall on the map below) was a city wall built around Rome between 271 AD and 275 AD by Emperor Aurelius to replace the then-insufficient Servian Wall (black wall on the map below). By then, Rome had expanded much beyond its old Servian Wall, and although it had stood essentially unfortified for centuries because it was protected by its powerful armies, incursions by Germanic barbarians and Vandals (in 270 AD) and internal revolts forced Rome to rethink its defenses and construct the new, larger and taller wall. The wall enclosed all seven hills of Rome plus the Campus Martius and the Trastevere district across the Tiber River. The wall ran for a distance of 12 miles, surrounding an area of 5.3 square miles. It was 11 feet thick and 26 feet high, with a square tower every 97 feet. It was built from bricks, and featured a walkable passage on the inner side that fully protected soldiers on patrol. Aurelian died a few months before it was completed even though the construction only took 5 years. Part of the reason for the quick progress and low cost was incorporation of existing buildings into the new wall. Approximately 1/6 of the wall might have been composed of pre-existing structures. Places where you can see this still today are at the Pyramid of Cestius, and near Porta Maggiore where a section of the Aqua Claudia was used for the wall. An area inside the wall was cleared to enable the wall to be reinforced quickly in an emergency. The wall was effective against the hit-and-run raids which barbarians commonly used, but would probably not have been effective against a prolonged siege. A 4th century remodelling of the wall by Maxentius doubled its height to 52 feet and improved the watch-towers. In 401 AD, under Honorius, the walls and gates were improved by facing the brick gates with thick white stone, adding semicircular towers, walling up the second arch in two-arched gates, and by replacing gate doors on hinges into portcullises which dropped down from above. Despite these improvements, Rome fell to Alaric I, king of the Visigoths in 410 AD, whose army entered the city through Porta Salaria. Totila, king of the Ostrogoths destroyed 1/3 of the wall in 545 AD when he sacked Rome, entering the city through the Porta Asinaria. The wall was repaired and continued defending the city until 1870, when the army of King Victor Emmanuel II of the Kingdom of Italy breached the wall near Porta Pia and captured Rome. Today, several parts of the wall are still well-preserved, the best being along the northern edge from the Muro Torto (Villa Borghese) to Corso d'Italia to Castro Pretorio; along the eastern edge from Porta Maggiore to Porta San Giovanni; along the southern edge from Porta Metronia to Porta Ardeatina and from Porta Ostiense to the Tiber; and along the western edge near the Porta San Pancrazio on the Janiculum Hill. The Museo delle Mura near Porta San Sebastiano explains how the wall was built and defended. Most of the gates stand at their original sites but have gone through changes over the centuries, adapting their purpose according to the needs of the day.

    
Servian Wall (black) and Aurelian Wall (red)

Porta San Giovanni (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 7th photos below) is a modern gate in the Aurelian Wall of Rome named after the nearby church of San Giovanni in Laterano. It is a single large arch built of travertine for pope Gregory XIII in 1574 to replace the neighboring and more imposing Porta Asinaria (5th and 6th photos below), which was part of the Aurelian Wall, which by the 1570s was unable to keep up with the high level of traffic and the rising street level in the area. Porta Asinaria is the gate by which the Gothic king Totila entered Rome in 546 during the Sack of Rome by the Ostrogoths in their war against the Byzantine Empire. Today's gate is not defensive, but rather more like the entrance to a villa. On the external side, a large bearded head is at the top of the arch.

    
Porta San Giovanni, from outside the city
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Porta San Giovanni, from outside the city
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Porta San Giovanni, from inside the city
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Porta San Giovanni and the surrounding Aurelian Wall, from outside the city
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Porta Asinaria, from outside the city
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Porta Asinaria, from inside the city
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Porta Asinaria and Porta San Giovanni and the Aurelian Wall
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Aurelian Wall beside Porta San Giovanni and Porta Asinaria
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